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Rob Lovelace
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ES2 clutch - (read 13502 times)
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23 November 2009 08:21
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the clutch basket has fibrous inserts in it and the whole thing moves in and out on these so the the basket will hit the rear steel and the first steel plate. How do overcome this? Am I missing something somewhere. rob.lovelace@yahoo.com
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Benjamin Gradler
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Article on Manx engine servicing... - (read 17254 times)
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20 July 2009 03:38
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There is a website with a lot of material on Cooper autos called 500race.org which has a pdf file you can download that describes a complete teardown and overhaul of the Manx Norton engine.
This is the web address to the article which is taken from a 1957 MotorCycling magazine:
www.500race.org/Marques/Servicing%20the%20Manx%201.pdf
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Benjamin Gradler
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Cams and cam follower wear - (read 10467 times)
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19 July 2009 05:25
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I wonder what kind of oil this guy was running. It would be fun to run Castrol castor bean oil like they did in the old days, and a lot still do, but there must be something better out there by now. I called the Barber museum one day and talked to their mechanic and he said they run Mobil synthetic motorcycle oil in their bikes. Not too long ago most of the additives to prevent wear on flat-tappet engines was taken out of most off-the-shelf motor oils as most autos now have roller-tappets. There is the Rotella oil for diesel engines that is supposed to have all the old additives in it still. With the cost of Manx parts, whatever oil is in the engine better be damn good stuff! Then there is viscosity, originally they specified a lot of straight grade oil for bikes with rolling-element bearings, but many now are running multi-vis in them. Whatever viscosity, having the oil good and warm before using a lot of throttle and revs has to be a good idea.......
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Benjamin
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Late Manx rear hub re-lining. - (read 10708 times)
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17 July 2009 10:12
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Thanks Ken. I guess the shoe linings are worn much below 1/4". I put an inside micrometer in the rear drum and it is at 7.050 inches. I guess I will have to send my shoes to you for re-lining and turning to that size? Ken, you could write the definitive book on Manx Nortons. Is that in the works?
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Benjamin Gradler
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re-chromating magnesum castings - (read 10643 times)
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17 July 2009 10:06
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Here is a company in California USA that sells a kit for magnesium conversion coating. They have a website at www chemical supermarket com. I have left out the abbreviations for the web address because posting here seems to be sensitive to html codes in postings.
Anyway it says the treatment kit is commonly known as Dow7 and leaves a charcoal grey finish on magnesium alloys. The company has a lot of interesting products that apply to the aviation trasportation and electronics industries.
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Ken McIntosh
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Late Manx rear hub re-lining. - (read 10732 times)
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16 July 2009 10:11
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The rear hub is originally 7.000" diameter and will stand a limited amount of machining oversize. The main problem is the already thin spigot the sprocket sits on becomes too thin to support the sprocket. The original brake shoes have a minimum of 1/4" thick linings and should always be machined to size after being assembled to the brake plate. A suitable mandrel and a large lathe are needed. The linings should be machined to the exact drum size after 0.040" (1mm) shims have been inserted between the cam and the shoe. If the linings do not clean up over 90% of their surface, put in more packers until they do. This process will ensure the radius of the shoes matches the drum exactly. The lining will not need any "bedding-in" If required, it is then possible to make a pair of packers of (up to) 2mm thick sheet steel, to permanently clip on to the shoe end plate. It is also possible to use this method to get a more favourable lever angle (less than 90 degrees with the rod) as the brake linings wear, as long as the brake rivet heads are still well clear of the drum. It is possible to fit a new cast iron brake liner into the hub, but this is complicated by the original liner being cast into the magnesium hub when manufactured.
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Benjamin Gradler
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re-chromating magnesum castings - (read 17425 times)
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16 July 2009 08:21
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I found this information on re-chromating magnesium castings which might be helpful to those with the balls to give it a go:
Should you consider chromating yourself the chemicals are :-
1) Magnesium diachromate (bright orange)
2) Manganese sulphate (white)
3) Magnesium sulphate (white)
Please check your local area and suppliers regulations for the use of these chemicals.
Add to 1 Imperial gallon of warm water 1 lb of orange chemical and .5 lbs each of the white chemicals
stir well to dissolve completely. Plastic or aluminium containers, a plastic dustbin works well for larger items.
Rechromating old castings
You must first clean the existing chromate off, this is best done by blasting with aluminium oxide grit. do not use sand,glass,steel or cast iron media. Or boil in caustic soda. Use gloves as finger marks sometimes stops the chromating working.
Chromating can be done cold between 4 to 12 hours but if you heat the solution to about 50 degrees C. Do not boil. The process takes about 15 minutes but do it in a well ventilated area. The mix will go active when it is working with small bubbles coming to the surface and even produce an orange froth depending on the preparation of the casting. The colour should be dark brown to black when the process is complete, the castings must be washed well to remove the chromating liquid. If you leave the castings in too long you will get a black powdery coating on the casting which will need hot water cleaning with a stiff brush to remove. After some time the mix will lose its effect especially if done hot, in which case throw away and wash the container for a fresh mix.
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Benjamin Gradler
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Amal GP2 Settings - (read 10524 times)
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16 July 2009 04:06
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Well we can look at what Irving says in his book. He says a small circle is engraved on the air-jet access plug adjacent to the air-slide and that the BOTTOM of this circle is the correct fuel level. Getting your fuel level correct would be the first step in tuning any carburetor as without having it correct all following questions and adjustments would be a waste of time. Irving goes on to suggest the use of a transparent tube connected to the float bowl outlet of the remote float to see the level of fuel in it. After that, once you are sure your main jet is correct, then the pilot air adjustment is supposed to be set as rich as possible consistent with a good tickover at low rpms.
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Benjamin Gradler
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Late Manx rear hub re-lining. - (read 17548 times)
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15 July 2009 07:13
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The rear hub for my 1959 Manx has been skimmed out to the point where actuating the brake lever does not move the shoes with good linings against the drum.
Does this make the hub trash, or is it common to bore these out and shrink-fit a new lining?
Thanks!
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Ken McIntosh
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Right size carburetor for Manx? - (read 10863 times)
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12 July 2009 02:34
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The 1961-63 Manx 500s used a 1-3/8"GP2 Amal. The earlier 500 short-strokes started with only 1-9/16" GP and got bigger with new models. Some tuners fitted 1-1/2"GP carburettorss but unless you do all the modifications to let the engine run to 8000 RPM the gain is small. If you run the standard weight piston past 7200 RPM it will crack soon after.
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